I DECLARE I AM HERE

A portrait series marking 30 years of democracy, celebrated in South Africa in 2024. The series reflects on how the denizens of inner city Johannesburg navigate the colonial, apartheid and postcolonial architecture and spaces with grit and with grace.

I Declare I Am Here

The title " I Declare I Am Here' has to do with 'standing your ground' something that was difficult for many under Apartheid. Fantastical street art and gritty urban palimpsests are the passing backdrops against which the people of the city declare themselves, their stances and sartorial choices echoing patterns in the urban fabric. Fleeting juxtapositions of culture, personal style and inner-city ephemera provide snap readings of a complex city in constant change and offer glimpses into the deeper urban strains of heritage, migration, xenophobia, crime, security, faith, aspiration and adaptation.

These episodic portraits lightly record pedestrians as they pass through Johannesburg suburbs steeped in history - Fordsburg, Doornfontein, Braamfontein, Hillbrow, Berea, Kensington, Jeppestown and City and Suburban – often on public holidays.

South Africa has many public holidays, and some were established in response to particular moments in the country’s history – Heritage Day, Youth Day (commemorating the June 16 massacre when protesting Soweto school children were killed by apartheid police), Human Rights Day, Freedom Day (commemorating the day Nelson Mandela cast his first vote after spending 27 years in prison) and Day of Reconciliation. Each of these public holidays holds different meanings for Johannesburg’s varied communities and intersecting cultural enclaves. Johannesburg’s cultural diversity is most abundantly apparent on its public holidays, and in the inner city, everyone dresses up.

When explaining his use of black and white film during the days of apartheid, South African photographer David Goldblatt famously said, ‘Colour film was too sweet for apartheid.’ Several decades later, those who tread the streets of downtown Johannesburg announce their passing presence via a loud assembly of colour and pattern.

South Africa’s wealthiest and most populous city, Johannesburg, is at once a vital, rich and functioning metropolis and a dystopian city approaching the brink of multi-modal collapse. Rolling electricity blackouts, water cuts, high crime rates, rampant corruption and rising unemployment have catalysed waves of violent protest and episodes of lawlessness, such as the xenophobic violence that erupted in September 2019. As people from myriad different nations stream in and out of Johannesburg along its network of highways and railways, South Africa wrestles with questions of borders and belonging.

Grim news headlines overlay some of the Johannesburg’s older legends - City of gold; City of dreams - yet Johannesburg is anything but skin deep. Its layers begin in the depths of the world’s deepest gold mines and rise to the top floors of the continent’s tallest buildings.

Since the discovery of gold in 1886, Johannesburg has been an economic mecca, its truly cross-cultural identity reflected at street level in a richness of cuisines and tongues. The rate of urbanisation since the early 90s has been extremely high, driven by in-migration but strongly characterised by the arrival of migrants from all around Africa. The breaking down and building up of the urban fabric mirrors the breaking down and building up of social and political orders. Against the backdrop of the inner city’s ageing architecture significant shifts in the nature of street life occurs monthly, and it is only the graffiti works of local artists that are able to keep up.

The photographs were made in an organic, intuitive fashion. They record fleeting interactions between the photographer, the inhabitants of the city and the city itself, with its peeling walls, brut poster-covered concrete pillars and flyovers, littered pavements and potholed streets. Traditional dress and street fashion combine, reflecting the hybrid identities and personal creativity of random passers-by going about their everyday business.

Many of the photographs were taken in the city's cavernous network of concrete underpasses. South Africa’s highway and railway system is part of a network of transportation that has it beginnings in 1948, the year the National Party gained power and began enforcing policies of racial segregation. The Johannesburg Ring road by example was created to allow for the mobility of Apartheid South African Army to defend the state from hostile neighbours and to quell anti-apartheid violence.

Like Johannesburg’s transient street art that is periodically erased, there is a flux of people navigating architecture of a by-gone era etched with memory, reclaiming colonial, apartheid and post apartheid spaces and reinventing identities in the process, with grit and with grace.

© Caroline Suzman - Image from the I DECLARE I AM HERE photography project
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Price Candle Factory circa 1910, Newtown, Johannesburg, South Africa. 15 March 2018 The building dates from when the Union of South Africa came into being, but originated in Battersea, United Kingdom in 1830.

© Caroline Suzman - Dawn, Newtown, Johannesburg. South Africa.
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Dawn, Newtown, Johannesburg. South Africa.

© Caroline Suzman - Image from the I DECLARE I AM HERE photography project
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Zambian national Nelson Chilambo, manager of a trucking company on his way to work. Behind him,a mural by L.A collective Cyrcle.Chilambo says'In Zambia there are no jobs, Johannesburg is great and I love America'. Doornfontein, Johannesburg, 13 May 2018

© Caroline Suzman - Image from the I DECLARE I AM HERE photography project
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Volkan Eren who is from Serbia and Lelo Mndaba who is from South Africa, met online. The indigenous flower on an underpass behind then is South Africa's national indigenous flower since 1976,represents change and hope. City and Suburban, Johannesburg 2018

© Caroline Suzman - Image from the I DECLARE I AM HERE photography project
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Mpho Makwa, a high schoo student celebrates Heritage Day. Heritage Day is a one of the many holidays that was created after 1994 on to encourage people to celebrate their culture and beliefs. Braamfontein, Johannesburg, 24 September 2019

© Caroline Suzman - Image from the I DECLARE I AM HERE photography project
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Rebecca Dunge en route to taking an ironing board to her daughter says 'I'm so proud to be South African on Heritage Day. The street art behind her depicts a scratched out Cecil John Rhodes. City and Suburban, Johannesburg 24 September 2017 (Heritage Day)

© Caroline Suzman - Image from the I DECLARE I AM HERE photography project
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Sarah Eckstein, waiting for a service to start on Good Friday, Dominating the street, a mural about the international arms trade in Africa by Angeles-based South African Ralph Ziman. Doornfontein, Johannesburg. 19 April 2019 (Good Friday)

© Caroline Suzman - Image from the I DECLARE I AM HERE photography project
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Jerry Chisale, a musian and youth pastor, on his way to ' Back to the City' youth festival. Behind his are a network of underpasses built during the days of Apartheid. Henry Xhumalo Street, Newtown,Johannesburg 9 June 2018

© Caroline Suzman - Image from the I DECLARE I AM HERE photography project
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Ellen Bennie, an attendant at the Worker’s Museum, commemorating the day Nelson Mandela cast his first vote on 27 April 1994 after spending 27 years in prison. Newtown Johannesburg 27 April 2018 (Freedom Day)

© Caroline Suzman - Image from the I DECLARE I AM HERE photography project
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Lehlohonolo Mfazwe arrives home to Bekezela informal settlement after traversing the city on a metal trolley he uses for collecting recyclables. He is one of over 100 000 homeles people living on the city streets, Newtown, Johannesburg. 9 June 2018

© Caroline Suzman - Image from the I DECLARE I AM HERE photography project
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Angel, a South African who owns a shop that sells Nigerian clothing, that was almost burnt down during the xenophobic riots, Jules Street, Malvern Johannesburg 2019

© Caroline Suzman - Image from the I DECLARE I AM HERE photography project
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Hendrik Luthuli, a hairdresser who works in the inner city passes an artwork by South African artist Sonny, near Johannesburg Park Station. Braamfontein, Johannesburg, South Africa. 28 January 2018

© Caroline Suzman - Image from the I DECLARE I AM HERE photography project
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Rafa Phiri pauses for a photograph en route to a karate lesso. Phiri says he does karate for "discipline, self defence, and to be strong and healthy." Behind him is an artwork referencing state capture.Doornfontein, Johannesburg. South Africa.13 May 2018

© Caroline Suzman - Image from the I DECLARE I AM HERE photography project
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Nkosana Mokoena sorting paper. An Economic Freedom Fighters (EFF) election poster promising "spacious houses" is ironic in an area that is home to more than 100 000 people, City and Suburban, Johannesburg, South Africa. 13 November 2016

© Caroline Suzman - Dancer/Performer Xolisile Ngubane , Maboneng, Johannesburg,Heritage Day, September 24, 2016
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Dancer/Performer Xolisile Ngubane , Maboneng, Johannesburg,Heritage Day, September 24, 2016

© Caroline Suzman - Image from the I DECLARE I AM HERE photography project
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Londiwe Dhlamini wearing traditional Ndebele dress and her daughter Kutwane pass a wall spray painted by South African artist Tapz on their way to a social event on Heritage Day. Maboneng, Johannesburg, 24 September 2017 (Heritage Day)

© Caroline Suzman - Image from the I DECLARE I AM HERE photography project
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Mbalenhle Gxuda, who is studying for a teaching degree at the University of Johannesburg pauses for a photograph on an early morning walk en route to a shop to buy airtime. Louis Botha Avenue, Berea, Johannesburg, South Africa. 13 March 2018

© Caroline Suzman - Image from the I DECLARE I AM HERE photography project
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Tasneem Malick (L) and Amina Sanusi, (R) unemployed and came to Johannesburg seven months ago from Malawi to look for work.Maboneng, Johannesburg

© Caroline Suzman - Image from the I DECLARE I AM HERE photography project
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Senzo Ndlovu, poet and actor next to a flyover’s graffiti-splashed pillar. City and Suburban, Johannesburg, 1 October 2017

I DECLARE I AM HERE by Caroline Suzman

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